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Glorious Gower
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If this is your first trip to the Gower Peninsula, then you have a tremendous treat in store.
But first a word of warning! As you approach the city of Swansea from an easterly direction along the M4 things don’t look too promising, as the skyline is dominated by the trappings of heavy industry. Nearer the city, however, the scene begins to perk up when you enter the up-and-coming commercial district, with its expanse of dockland regeneration and buzzing, contemporary marina. But still, no real hint of what is to come. The fact is that nothing, en route to Gower, quite prepares you for the superb scenery and sudden change in pace that awaits you, a few minutes down the road, west of Swansea.
Approximately sixteen miles long and seven miles wide, the Gower Peninsula was the first designated AONB (Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty), in Britain. And to this day, it remains gloriously unspoilt. Development is restricted throughout the area and large sections of the coastline are designated ‘Heritage Coast'. The entire Gower Peninsula is a nature lovers’ paradise, with some of the most varied landscapes and flora and fauna, in Britain, all concentrated within a few square miles. Salt marshland, mudflats, grazing commons, hills, woodland, cliff tops, dunes, coves, bone caves and megalithic burial tombs - Gower has got the lot.
Habitation on the Gower Peninsula dates back to Palaeolithic times. Prehistoric burial mounds, Iron Age forts, mediaeval castles and churches, as well as 124 listed buildings make rich pickings for the historically minded. Or, for more hands-on style heritage, with family appeal, visit the Gower Heritage Centre at Parkmill (on the A4118, eight miles west of Swansea). The centre is built around a twelfth century water mill which now houses craft workshops and focuses on traditional Gower trades and handicrafts.
If you are new to the area, a great way to get your bearings and to sample what the peninsula has to offer is to take an exhilarating boat trip around the Gower coastline. Several companies offer boat trips, including the WTB assured www.gowercoastaladventures.co.uk.
For a real flavour of life ‘on Gower’, you can do no better than visit as many of its inviting villages as possible; each has its own distinct identity and history; each has its own colourful ‘born-and-bred’ Gower characters with a tale to tell! From cosmopolitan Mumbles in the south, to the village of Penclawdd, the ‘cockle capital’ of North Gower, lifestyle, accents, even language differ quite markedly, from village to village. Take for example, Penclawdd; a mere three or four miles down the road, you will find the smaller village of Llanrhidian, which dates back to the sixth century. The two villages are poles apart, in character, even in language. Many of the inhabitants of Penclawdd speak Welsh as their everyday language of choice, whereas Llanrhidian is predominantly English speaking.
Top of the list of Gower’s attractions are its safe and sandy beaches including Mumbles Sands at the western tip of Swansea Bay and the popular bathing and surfing beaches of South Gower, such as Langland Bay and Caswell Bay. Families tend to favour the facilities and seclusion of Port Eynon beach, in South Gower. But, scenery is dramatic wherever you go along the Gower coastline. The sweeping views from the less accessible Three Cliffs Bay, in the south, are especially rewarding, as indeed is the breathtaking panorama from the windswept top of Rhossili Downs, in the south west. Then there are the magnificent dunes of Llangennith in the north west; Llangennith is also renowned for its world class surfing.
The Gower Peninsula also boasts a wide range of all-year-round outdoor activities, from rambling (Gower has over 383 kilometres of ‘public rights of way’ paths) to horse riding, with several equestrian centres offering riding lessons and hacks to suit all levels of ability. Cyclists, too, are well catered for throughout the area, with the North Gower Cycle Route of particular interest to those who may prefer the quieter roads of North Gower. Gower is also renowned for its hang-gliding and para-gliding; (if you fancy a go, head for Rhossili Bay).
Finally, any tips on where to stay, when visiting the Gower Peninsula? The long and the short of it is that anywhere in Swansea or West Glamorgan, for that matter, offers easy access to this coveted South Wales location. The choice is yours.
Gower is a favourite weekend retreat for the people of Swansea and the surrounding area, as well as tourists from further afield; the chances are that you, too, will be hooked by its charm.
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